VISAS

To enter Vietnam, foreigners need a visa. At present, one-month tourist visas and six-month business visas can only be obtained through Vietnamese embassies abroad. Visas are not issued upon arrival.

When you request a visa, be sure to stipulate whether you need a "Multiple Entry" or "Single Entry" visa. The former lets you leave Vietnam and return, while the second is void after one entry. Another thing to check is the "Entry and Exit Points". The standard way to leave or enter Vietnam is by air from Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City. If you plan to travel overland, be sure that your visa reflects this. Once in Vietnam, visas can usually be extended for a fee.

CUSTOMS AND IMMIGRATION

On arrival in Vietnam, you must complete white and blue duplicate arrival-departure forms. The blue copy is to be kept with your passport at all times. Hotels, guest houses and private hosts must register overnight guests with the local police and these blue forms are essential for this purpose.

Incoming visitors must also fill out duplicate yellow and white customs declaration forms. The yellow copy is to remain with your passport until departure. Don't lose it!

Customs demands that you declare foreign currency in excess of US$7,000, gold and jewellery not for personal use and video tapes. Duty free allowances are 300 cigarettes, two liters of alcohol, and perfume and jewellery for personal use.

BANNED MATERIAL

Vietnam has strict laws on bringing in anti-government literature, pornography, firearms and weapons. CDs and tapes are often retained for screening, but will be returned after a few days. It is illegal to remove antiques from Vietnam. When buying handicrafts, especially those that look old ask the retailer for a receipt and a declaration that the item may be exported.

AIRPORT TAX

International flights: US$10

Domestic flights: VND30,000

Kids under two are exempt

GETTING TO TOWN

In Hanoi, Airport Taxis charge a flat rate of US$10 (one-way) for cars from Noi Bai Airport to central Hanoi. The drive takes about 45 minutes. A minibus makes the trip for US$4 per person.

In Ho Chi Minh City, a metered cab from Tan Son Nhat Airport to downtown costs around VND50,000. The trip takes about 30 minutes.

CURRENCY

The Vietnamese dong (VND) is worth about VND14,000 to the dollar. Although the government encourages tourist to use dong, many hotels and restaurants will accept American bills. It is easy to change cash at airports, banks, hotels, post offices and licensed money changers in bigger towns. US$100 bills earn a higher exchange rate than smaller denominations. Only foreign bank branches and Vietcombank's main branches (in big cities) accept travelers cheques. High-end hotels, restaurants and some shops take Visa.

*Do not accept old, faded or ripped bills (dong or dollars), as you may have trouble passing them on.

WHAT TO BRING

From November through March, northern Vietnam is cool and damp so bring a jacket and sweater. In the highlands, night-time temperatures are crisp year-round. Outside of Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City you will have trouble finding sunscreen, tampons, mosquito repellent, multivitamins, and prescription medicines.

IMMUNIZATIONS

Contact your public health clinic regarding immunizations. Malaria is not a problem in cities or above 1,300 meters, but care must be taken in rural lowland areas.

TELECOM

It is possible to make IDD calls, send faxes and connect with the Internet in Vietnam. Major hotels and post offices offer these services, and Internet cafes have sprung up in bigger tourist centers. You may not receive collect calls in Vietnam. Mobile phones are available for rent at main post offices.

Electricity is usually 330 volts. Most plugs are two-pinned with rounded pins, except in international-standard hotels.

BUSINESS HOURS

Government offices generally open around 8am and close between 4pm and 5pm, Monday to Friday. Museums keep similar hours but are closed on Monday. Always try to avoid doing business at lunch, since many employees take naps. Markets open around 6am and shut down at dusk.

DRESS

Shorts and tank tops are inappropriate in pagodas and at formal events. Guests should ask whether it is alright to wear shoes when entering private homes.